The Grande Randonnée Cinq through the Alps:

Books and Maps

 

By David May

Copyright 2004 - 2009, All rights Reserved
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Table of Contents Links:

General Information:

1. Why the GR5 and GR52?

Difficulty

Who should use this site?

Other Long Distance Alpine Hikes

About the author

2. The Entire GR5, from the North Sea to the Mediterranean (three months) (only summarily described here with a few references).

The Alpine Crossing, from Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) to either Nice or Menton on the Mediterranean. Nice is a 4 weeks walk from Lake Geneva, Menton, almost 5 weeks. I recommend the walk to Menton over the GR 52 variant, if you can possibly find the time.

Types of trekkers - "purists" and "easygoers".

Costs and Budget

3. When to Go and When to Walk

Accommodation: Types and Reservations

Planning your Route

Meeting People

4. Trail Identification and Direction Marks

Gear

5. Books, Maps, Internet sites, GPS

6. Conditioning, hiking speed, rest days

7. Shopping and Communications

8. Top sights attractions:
Lake Geneva Steamer*;
Dent d'Oche**;
Samoens*;
Chamonix area*** (a very slight detour; consider allowing three or more sunny days);
Briançon**;
Sospel*and Aspremont* ;
Nice** and Menton**.

9. GR5 access points:

Author's Route Recommendations and Tips for the demanding hiker:

10. Starting Points on the South Shore of Lake Geneva: The official St. Gingolph or Thonon-les-Bains, vis-a-vis my preferred starting point of Evian-les-Bains. Advantages and disadvantages. Getting there. Detouring to visit the Dent d'Oche**.

11. Accommodations from La Chapelle-d'Abondance to Chamonix (or Les Houches).

12. Accommodations and route, Chamonix to Briançon.

13. Accommodations and route, Briançon to Larche: My difficult but thrilling back way out of Briançon.

14. Routes from Larche: GR5 versus "Les Balcons du Mercantour". Recommended: Either an exciting short variation through exciting high-mountain terrain, or a six day short cut partly in Italy to the GR52 or GR5.

15. The final week: Choosing between the GR5 and the GR52 to the Mediterranean:

How to handle the 2,000 meter (6,600 foot) descent from the Valley des Merveilles to Sospel on the GR52.

Don't miss the stupendous GR52 final day from Sospel to the Mediterranean at Menton.

Books, Maps, Internet Sites, GPS

Since pack weight is all-important, you will want to carry only the books and maps you will actually use on the trail. Seriously consider cutting off unnecessary portions of maps, and removing unnecessary pages from books.

Topo Guides

The best books for use on the trail are the four French Topo Guides that cover the Alpine Crossing of the GR5 - GR52. You should consider using these even if you don't speak French, because they have good maps, and because they indicate the time for an average hiker between obvious places on the maps — usually every hour or two.  If you don't know a few French geographic terms, such as "col"(pass), ideally you should spend a couple of hours before you leave, or on the trail. Perhaps take a small dictionary with you. Each Topo Guide weighs about 5 ounces. They are (as of August 2006), from north to south:

FFRP#504, "Du Léman au Mont-Blanc GR5 "
FFRP#530, "Parc de la Vanoise GR5 GR55"
FFRP#531, "Grand Traversée des Alpes (de Modane à Larche) GR5 GR6"
FFRP#507 Tinée-Vésubie - Vallée Des Merveilles, GR 5 GR52

The FFRP Topo Guides contain excerpts from excellent IGN 1:50,000 maps that are quite sufficient to guide you (if you stick relatively close to the official GR5 - GR52 routing). (In this Site, if other maps are needed for one of my special routings, I will name them.).

The Topo Guides give an itinerary of successive landmarks, with hiking times between them, as calculated for an "average hiker". They are supposed to be figured at 300 meters (1000 feet) per hour up, about 400 to 500 meters (1,400 to 1,650 feet) per hour going down, and about 4 km (2.4 miles) per hour on the flat. However, is some instances, a faster rate of assent or descent has obviously been used. You should review the elevation changes and double check the times when planning your trip. Remember also, that the times given in the guides do not allow for rest stops or meals.

The Topo-Guides also provide contact information for gîtes and refuges along the GR5 and GR52; and comment on the history, geology, flora, and fauna of the region traversed.

The Topoguides are available in the USA from Omni Resources http://www.omnimap.com for $24.95 each (2007) (one report from a reader that they have been out of stock, so consider placing your order by phone only after checking on availability.

They are also available for about 14 Euros ($19- mid -2007) from France (at for example Au Vieux Campeur's map store in Paris in the 5th Arrondissement, not far from Notre Dame; or directly from the FFRP web site; or for the local region in some towns along the trail.) From time to time the numbers and names of these volumes change; you can check on the FFRP's web site: http://www.ffrp.asso.fr. Click on "Catalogue en Ligne" . (Direct link in 2007: http://www.ffrandonnee.fr/topos/topoGuidesCatalResult.aspx?t=gr&v=5.)

If you are walking the entire GR5 starting on the North Sea, two other Topo-Guides for northeastern France are available: FFRP#502 "Crete Des Vosges", FFRP#511 "Lacs et Plateaux du Jura". The latter is out of print in France, but still available from Omni Resources in August 2006. However, Topoguide #512 and #510 both cover the Jura (which lies in the Franche-Compté region of the country) and I suspect that the GR5 is included in whole or in part in #512. 

I know of no Topo-Guide for the crossing of upper France (Lorraine), and am unfamiliar with the materials available for Holland, Belgium and Luxembourg.

The book: "Walking the French Alps: GR5"

The best English alternative to the Topo Guides is the book by Paddy Dillon, "Walking the French Alps: GR5". It is available on-line from Amazon-associated suppliers in the USA, and directly from Cicerone Press in the UK (14£ in 2009). It is also available from Omni Resources (http://www.omnimap.com); click on France, followed by Cicerone Guides. The advantages of this volume, other than its being in English, are three: 1) compactness: Four Topo Guides have been condensed into one volume that weighs only 7.4 ounces (210 grams); 2) its organization, which places the details about lodgings within the main flow of the text, rather than before it; 3) a more detailed route description at certain difficult passages.

The main disadvantage of the Dillon book is that it contains no topographical maps, and another is that it contains less information of the local flora, fauna, and geology.

There is also been the puzzling matter of hiking time inconsistency in the Dillon book. As in the Topo Guides, you will find information on landmarks and the times between them. The hiking times, it seems to me, are initially too short, from St. Gingolph, both ascending and descending. The climb rates will be unattainable by most walkers—400-500 meters (1,300 - 1,600 feet) per hour over several hours. Be forewarned! Another discrepancy of an hour between the Topo Guides and the Dillon book occurs between La Chapelle-d'Abondance and the Col Des Mattes!!! Immediately after Chamonix, the times given by Collins seem to me to be unnecessarily long. I have not checked the rest of the book. Paddy Dillion told me that he walked the routes in his book more than once to confirm his timings. None the less, if you use this book, be forewarned and check the times given against a map!

Maps

The best maps for the GR5 and GR52 are the IGN 1:25,000 maps. If you are going to use the FFRP Topo-Guides, you will only need maps if you are deviating well away from the main GR5 - GR52 trails.

IGN maps at 1:50,000, the Series Orange maps, are also available but each covers the same north-south distance as the corrresponding 1:25,000 map, but up to twice as much east-west distance. Since you are travelling north-south, you will not need the extra east-west distance, and you will probably prefer the more detailed 1:25,000 maps. Depending upon the map, each weighs from 1.5 to 3.7 ounces.

Purchasing the requisite IGN maps, at either 1:25,000 or 1:50,000 will set you back a pretty penny: about 8 - 10 Euros each in France or about $16 (2007) if you buy in the USA on line, and you will need 17 or 20 of either type for an Alpine crossing. The Topo Guides, which contain the essential map information, cost only 13-14 Euros each, and you will only need four. So you might only want to buy Topo Guides even if you are going to use the Collins book as your guidebook.

The following IGN maps are needed for the Alpine Crossing.   The designations shown are for the 1:25,000 series; for the 1:50,000 series, drop the final two letters:


3428ET Thonon/Evian
3528ET Morzine/Massif-du-Chablai
3530ET Samoens/Haut-Griffe
3630ET Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (if visiting Chamonix)
3531ET St.-Gervais-Les-Bains
3532OT Massif du Beaufortin
3532ET Les Arcs/La Plagne
3633ET Tignes/Val-D'Isere
3534OT Les Trois Vallées
3535OT Nevache/Mont Thabor
3536OT Briançon
3537ET Guillestre
3637OT Mont Viso
3538ET Aiguille de Chambeyron
3639OT Haut Tinée 1
3640 OT Haut Cians (if taking GR5)
3640ET Haut Tinée 2 (if taking the Balcons de Mercantour route)
3641ET Moyen Tinée (if taking the GR5)
3741OT Valee de la Vesubie (GR5 or GR52)
3741ET Valee de la Bevera et des Paillons (GR5 or GR52)
3742OT Nice/Menton (GR5 or GR52)

For the maps listed in this section, the best on-line source USA appears to be http://www.omnimap.com (although service recently has been spotty). Click on France, and then on 1:25000 topographical maps(a direct link in 2007 to these maps is: http://www.omnimap.com/catalog/int/france/fra-25-l.htm.) In the UK, Stanfords (http://www.stanfords.co.uk) carries these. Maps are widely available in France, in stores along your hiking route. In Paris, a complete selection of the 1:25,000 and 1:50,000 maps are available in Paris at the map store of "Au Vieux Campeur", located in the Fifth Arrondissement about 8 blocks from Notre Dame.  These maps are also available from IGN, in France, their publisher (link 2007: http://www.ign.fr/rubrique.asp?rbr_id=1207&lng_id=FR.).

(There is now a series of 1:60,000 maps that you might want to consider, available at Omnimap.com ($18.95 in 2009), at the Au Vieux Campeur map store in Paris at 11 Euros each (2006), in stores in Germany, and along the route. They are published by Libris based upon IGN maps, and entitled "Carte randonnnée et patrimoine". Numbers said to be available are: 01 - Léman; 02 - Mont Blanc; 04 - Vanoise; 06 - Queyras; 07 - Mercantour. Map 05 Ecrins fills in a tiny portion missing between 04 and 06. The Mercantour map stops north of the Mediterranean, so you would need to purchase the last two IGN maps as well.

Consider, also, buying maps for Chamonix and for the Vanoise Park, just to study the fascinating landscape of these regions, and particularly if you plan to stay an extra day or more as a day hiker or tourist.

Other Books

Before you depart on your walk, you may wish read personal accounts of trips. One book I suggest was published in 1986, and is available used on the Amazon site and elsewhere: "Walking Europe from Top to Bottom" by Susanna Margolis and Ginger Harmon.

Web travelogues, GPS waypoints

Other accounts may be found by searching the Web. One web account— in French, but with many pictures of the route is: http://www.itirando.com/rando/rando.php?rando=alpes&jour=00i

Another account of the southern GR5 and GR52 through the Mercantour Park can be found at: http://perso.orange.fr/philippe.bourgine/mercantour2002.htm.  This site in French also provides photos, technical data on elevations and times, as well as GPS waypoints.  [Thanks to Joe Gigas for providing information on this and the subsequent two Internet sites.]

A travel history in English, covering the GR52, from Saint-Saveur-sur-Tinée to Menton, with altitutes and photos is: http://mark-fowler.homemail.com.au/pages/route.html.

The following site in Dutch has a list of GPS waypoints from Hoek van Holland to Briancon, which is most of the GR5: http://www.uitslagen.nl/gr5/wayp.html

The above site lists of GPS waypoints cover much of the GR5 - GR52.  At the present time I know of no site giving waypoints between Briancon and Larche, nor the GR5 between St-Dalmas-Valdeblore and Nice..

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