Hiking the E2 trail, a.k.a. the GR5, through the Alps in France:
Blaizes (Waymarks); Gear Selection
By David May
Copyright 2004 - 2009, All rights Reserved
Trail marking (blaizes or waymarks)The GR trails (grande randonées, that is, long distance trails) throughout the Alps all use the same system of trail marking ("waymarking" in British English). A GR is marked with a white rectangle sitting above or upon a red rectangle.(Local, non-GR trails use other color combinations, or a mark of one color.) If two GRs (Grand Randonnées) cross or branch, the number of the GR will be written on each trail. You will find the waymarks on trees, on stones, on signs, on walls—wherever there is any question as to the trail, and often just as reassurance that you are on it. I have found it difficult to get off the proper GR trail, but it can happen. If you do, backtrack to the first visible trail mark, or use a map to regain the correct route. Also, there are a a few spots here and there in the Alps where you might want the reassurance of a waymark, and there is not one. So a map or guide book —while not an absolute necessity—is very helpful.
For those who are following the GR5 from Holland, in Luxembourg and in Alsace there are separate marking systems that predate the GR5. Obtain local maps or guides: In the Vosges mountains of Alsace the maps published by the Club Vosgien are best. Obviously, where the GR trail markings diverge from the trace on your map or Topoguide, the markings take precedence. This means the GR has been rerouted. However, during the Alpine crossing, it is quite unlikely that the GR routing will have changed very much. Gear for Hut to Hut hiking:Boots and socks I have until now always recommend the use of waterproof membrane-lined light weight, somewhat stiff-soled boots and not airy low-cut, relatively fkexubke hiking shoes or running shoes. The main reason has been the possibility of cold weather and heavy rain; but also the need to cross (very rarely) wet, muddy, snowy or rock-filled terrain, and the wear on one's feet if one uses a flexible soled boot and carries a heavy pack. The problem with membrane lined boots has always been the heat and perspiration build up in hot weather that can quickly cause blisters. Thus, personally, I felt impelled to change my hiking socks once or twice during the day, but often my decision to change them came too late and I developed a blister.. This year (2009), on my recent trip into the very rocky southern Alps with an under 20 pound pack, I used very light weight, low-cut airy, flexible hiking shoes that had unbelievable slip-resistance. It did not rain, and because my feet were cool and airy, they did not become damp, and I did not develop a blister. It is a fallacy (at least for me) that over the ankle boots give more stability than low cut trail shoes (providing the sole of the shoe is sufficiently broad). (The very heavy mountaineering boots that practically nobody wears for trail hiking would provide ankle stability, of course). Today, with today's equipment, there is no reason to be carrying a heavy pack on the GR5, and so the stiffness of heavier boots is not an issue. Whether the possibility of heavy rain justifies the heavier, membrane-lined boot, I cannot say. Ultra-lite web sites and books may shed more light on this matter. Whatever footwear you choose, do strongly consider replacing the inner soles with a purchased pair that have good arch support and good impact absorption. (If your inner soles are old or much used, the springiness has probably gone out of them, and they should be replaced.) This impact absorption. is very important to help protect your knees on the long steep descents that you will have to make, such as the descent to the Chamonix valley, or the descent from the Valley of Marvels to Sospel on the GR52. Sun Protection If you have a fair skin that doesn't tan well , seriously consider wearing very light long sleeve shirts and pants, rather than short sleeve shirt and shorts. This is particularly true in the southern Alps, where the humidity is reduced, and the sun intense. The alternative is gobs of a good effective suncream. Keep in mind that a couple of tubes of sunscreen can weigh one-half pound. To protect your face from the sun, wear a hat! Also make sure that your sunglasses are dark ones. Eyestrain from too much glare can easily give you a headache. Trekking Poles I recommend you carry these. Trekking poles serve several purposes: 1) Stability on the very few parts of the trail that cross scree or (perhaps) snow; 2) cushioning the stress on your knees on a steep descent; and 3) conserving energy during climbs. It is said, and is true for me personally, that energy expended hiking a given distance is significantly reduced when poles are used. Some of the greatest Alpinists of the world have used them. Packing for the Rain: I have never found a pack rain cover that was effective in heavy rains. To keep one's things dry, in my view the best bet is freezer-weight zipper bags (the type with a plastic slider—test them out, the slider usually comes off some cheaper brands, Zip- Loc® for one). Hefty® is a better bet. These bags also help keep you organized. They are available in American supermarkets in quart, gallon, and 2.5 gallon sizes, but are not easily found in France. As an alternative, consider lining your pack with a heavy-duty garbage bag. What kind of backpack ? Personally, I believe at this 2009 writing that a traditional 6 or 7 pounnd backpack, which I used for many years, is obsolete. It carried very well for loads up to 40 or 50 pounds, but one's load today is a fraction of that. Depending upon the weight you will carry you could purchase a 3 pound (1.5 kilo) backpack with a good wastebelt that carries nicely up to 30 pounds (such as the larger so-called "ultralite" backpack I have made for REI (a USA cooperative). Or you could buy simple, voluminous shoulder-carried backpack weighing about 1 to 1.5 pounds (0.5 to .7 kilo) and able to carry comfortably about 15 pounds. In my experience, a pack without a carrying waistbelt allows you much more freedom and speed, and less effort, so the "ultra-lite" approach gains doubly in making for an enjoyable outing. The following table provides information that may help you calculate your pack weight on the trail. The table is based upon the assumption that you will not be carrying a tent or a sleeping bag; although it is possible to "camp" your way across the Alps (but not in the Vanoise Park!). It assumes that you will be staying in refuges, gites, and hotels (refer to the chapter on Accommodations). It assumes that you will not be dressing up for fancy restaurants or hiking out of the summer. If any of the the contrary is true, add the necessary weight in the second column of the listing.
What to carry? The decision is yours! |
Upcoming
turns of a GR are indicated by four perched rectangles, from top
to bottom white, red, white, red. At the turn it self, an arrow
will indicate the direction of the turn, and usually, should you
miss the turn, the incorrect trail will initially be marked by a
red "x" .