How to Hike the GR5, The Grande Randonnée Cinq (Five), through the Alps.
Chapelle d'Abondance to Chamonix
By David May
Copyright 2004 - 2007, All rights Reserved
Accommodations - La Chapelle d'Abondance to the Chamonix ValleyLa Chapelle d'Abondance There are many lovely, fairly priced hotels in La Chapelle d'Abondance, which is only a 3 hour hike from the Refuge of Bise and less than 5hours from the Dent d'Oche. If you wish to stay in a hotel, and eat a multi-course dinner for not too much money, this is a good town to do it in. A gîte d'étape is available as well. Where in the world to sleep the next night? The next day presents a lodging problem for purists—perhaps the most difficult lodging problem of the GR5. The first nearby refuge at Plaine-Dranse is 7 hours away from La Chapelle d'Abondance by a 40 minute detour downwards from the GR5 trail. If you do stay there, it is possible the next day to bushwhack up the slopes to the GR5 without retracing steps. When I stayed at this refuge, on my first walking of this route over ten years ago, I did not find it comfortable or salubrious. It served no meals. The second time, I passed it by. Check it out; things may have changed. The refuge at Tinderets is not an ideal destination, an hour off the GR5 sharply down- and uphil by 173 meters (600 feet) l. It is also about a 7 hours walk from La Chapelle d'Abondance. So it may be best to make this a very long, hard day and continue into Switzerland. There is a basic Swiss refuge at 8 hours 20 minutes from La Chapelle d'Abondance, or you could continue on to a nice hotel in Les Crosets, 20 minutes off the GR, and a 9 hour walk from your start. Remember, these times do not include rest stops and meals, and are for average walkers. Start early, and in good weather, as you will eventually be walking on exposed ridges. When was covering this part of the GR5 the second time, my easygoing friends insisted on taking a taxi from La Chapelle d'Abondance to the Col de Bassachaux (where we had an omelet before setting off) saving over 6 hours of walking. We then walked on through Switzerland to the Hotel-Refuge of the Mines d'Or in about 5 hours. Savor the day walking in Switzerland
A most pleasant place to stay Whichever lodgings you chose the night before, it will be enjoyable to spend the next night at Les Mines d'Or hotel-refuge-restaurant, with some private rooms and some dormitories, and which has good food, good fishing and charm. It is a 6 and 1/2 hour walk from Plaine-Drance or Tinderets, and about 3 hours from Les Crosets (and only a 20 minute detour from the GR5). After the Mines d'Or, there is no need to retrace your steps. You can cut across the valley floor and climb back up to the GR5 at Bonnevalette, in about 1 and 1/2 hours. After attaining les Allamands in an hour and 35 minutes, a boring one and one-half hours' descent brings you into Samoëns. From Allamands, you have a choice to walk down the road instead of following GR5. Your total walking time this day is less than 5 hours. Use your spare time to enjoy Samoëns. Samoëns is full of Life The center of Samoëns is colorful and lively, with many restaurants. There's a gîte d'étape and a choice of hotels. I suggest staying Samoéns if you can, rather than in Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, even though it means a longer walk the following day.Advance reservations are highly recommended in summer in this frequented town; Samoëns was full on my first trip through, and I had to take a taxi to Sixt (and back, so as not to miss any of the trail). Another long and hard day?
Now it is a 1,100 meter (3,600 foot) grimpe (long, arduous climb) up to the plateau. The Topo Guide time allocates 3 hours and 5 minutes for the climb to the Collet d'Anterne, but that is too short: Another half-hour, at least, is needed if you climb at standard speeds. After a total walk of 6 hours from Samoéns, you arrive at the refuge of the Chalets d'Anterne, on the plateau. Should you stop and call it a day? No! Continue another 2 hours, climbing another 350 meters (1, 100 feet) to cross the Col d'Anterne and descend to the Refuge de Moëde, where you will have made an advance reservation. This refuge has a great view and a high mountain ambiance. Visit Le Brevant, and Descend to Chamonix, not Les Houches!
But, assuming you are not afraid of heights, a better plan is to follow the GR5 to the summit of the Brevant, an hour away, which usually involves crossing some snow fields and also requires climbing a short ladder. Arriving at the summit, at 2,526 meters (8,200 feet) you have a superlative view of the Chamonix Valley below, the plateau behind, and more. To avoid the 1,500 meter (4,900 foot) steep descent on foot, you can take the télépherique down to Chamonix (via Pranplatz). But if you are a purist you will continue down on foot, being careful to tread lightly and with your legs bent, and using trekking poles, in order to save your knees. Assuming you are walking down by foot, stop and rest at the Bel Lachat refuge, and then take my advice to branch left, leaving the GR5, and descending to Chamonix in 2 1/2 or 3 hours. Spend some time in the Chamonix valley (learn why on my page on "Top Attractions". For those who are "slavishly" following the GR5 bear right at this junction, staying on the GR5 and descend in 2 1/2 or 3 hours to Les Houches. (In order to avoid missing the marvels of the Chamonix Valley take the train or bus to from Les Houches to Chamonix). |
The
walk from Les Crosets in Switzerland back to the French border at
the col de Coux is one of the highlights of the GR5. On dirt roads,
next to lush green meadows filled with flowers, you watch cows grazing,
their huge Swiss cowbells clanking, amid huge Swiss farmhouses.
At La Pierre you can see a cowbell collection, and watch cheese
being made. You won't want to hurry this part of your vacation.
From
Samoëns, a lovely 2 hour valley walk alongside the Clévieux
River brings you to the foot of the Anterne plateau. You could
spend the night here, in Sixt-Fer à-Cheval in a hotel or
gîte d'étape, and take a taxi or tour to see the famous
view at the Fer-à-Cheval (horseshoe) to the east of the town.
If you do so, your next day will be cut to a reasonable 6 hours
of walking.
After
a relatively easy, but exciting, 3 hour walk from the Moëde
refuge, that might involve crossing some snow patches, you reach
the Col du Brevant, and your first good view of the Mont Blanc massif.
Many easygoing walkers will be tempted to walk down 45 minutes to
Pranplatz and take the télépherique there down to
Chamonix, bypassing the Brevant summit; or they might be tempted
to walk down directly to Chamonix, a knee-testing 1,300 meter (4,000
feet) steep descent via switchbacks.