Routes from Larche to
the Tinée Valley
Do take a rest day in Larche.
No matter which route you are going to follow, do set out early
in the day from Larche (1,675 meters, 5,500 feet). If you are going
to follow my special route, I highly recommend you set out by flashlight
before dawn. You will want to be off these high and exposed passes
before mid-afternoon. If you are staying in the Gîte de Larche,
they will lay out coffee and bread for you the night before.
Whatever your planned route, you leave Larche by the highway and quickly branch
onto a minor road, which, after an hour, curves southwards and enters
the Mercantour National Park. Now on a trail, you climb to the Pas
de la Cavale at 2,671 meters (about 8,800 feet) in a total of 4 1/2 hours.
Your elevation gain to this point will be 1,000 meters (3,300 feet). The scenery, looking ahead from the Pas de la Cavale pass resembles a moonscape.
If you are taking the author's special route—which requires
bushwhacking— now, at the pass, is the time to study your map
carefully, and to match landmarks with the map. Descend to the lakes
d'Angel in the Salse Moraine Valley at 2,343 meters.
Looking back now at the Pas de Cavalle pass, you will wonder
how you ever came down the cliff.
From the Pas de Cavale,the Lac d'Angelis on left below;,the trail
to Bouziéyas runs from there along dried river towards the right.
The
photo beneath this one is placed further to the left, with a wider
angle view. Click any photo to enlarge.
 The
GR5 now bears slightly to the right and descends to the refuge of
Bouziéyas (at 1,883 meters) in less than two hours.
If you receive word at the Gîte de Larche that the Pas
de Cavale is blocked with snow, as happened to me on my second visit
to this area, a somewhat lower route is possible; it is across
the border in Italy, four kilometers further southeast on the main
highway from Larche. Ask at the Gîte de Larche for the latest
information. It enters the same "Salse Moraine Valley"
by the Col de Pouriac. Figure that this route will add an hour and
one-half to your time, more if you have to contend with snow banks
at the stream. If you are an easy going walker, you might offer to
pay the gite owner or a hotel employee to transport you to the Italian trailhead by car.
The Author's Favorite and (to some) Most Scary Route
to the Refuge de Vens. (Average hiking time of 8 - 9 hours from Larche in good weather.)
Salse Moraine Valley. Bushwhacking route passes left
in front of high, black curved ridge in center of photo; then, turning
right,it passes out of view behind it, in front of mountains in
distance.
Click this photo to enlarge it (popups must be enabled in your browser).
The large photo has a dot to mark my opion of your destination (you
must confirm this with your map, as I cannot be responsible.
 This
route truly can be scary because it is wild, because you will be temporarily
lost, because it is exposed, because you must assend another 500 meters (1,700 feet) and because it is difficult. I
have walked it twice: The first time my hiking companion was desperate
to turn back. The second time my son-in-law was frightened out of
his wits. The very qualities that makes it scary makes it one of
my favorite routes. I would suggest that you do not undertake the
detour alone, because, in the event of an accident, you are unlikely
to meet anyone else on the trail (and that is especially true in
June or September).
Needless to say, don't attempt this route if there is the least
sign of thunderstorms, or of fog on the peaks; or if you are not
comfortable on exposed ridges; or if your physical stamina is low.
Looking back at the Pas de Cavale from Lac d'Angel.
 Also,
be sure and study your map carefully before you begin, so you will
know what you are doing. I recommend IGN map 3639OT, "Haute
Tinée 1". Allow 4 hours from the Lacs d'Angel to the
Refuge de Vens.
The French Internet Site Geoportail (http://www.geoportail.com), which is similiar to Google Earth, can show you aerial photography of the region, and enlarged IGN maps that are easier to follow than the available printed one (unless it has been improved recently). In "Geoportail", at the left where "Découverte" shows in a selection box, change it to "Exploration". Set the slider for the IGN map to 100%. Enter "Larche" in the town search box and press "J'y vais". Zoom in to 1:20,000 (or 1:10,000 later) and trace the GR5 south from Larch to the Pas de la Cavalle. Examine the valley to the south and east of the Pas de la Cavalle as far as the Pas de Morgon and the Col de Faire. Each contour line is 10 meters. (I was not able to put the URL for the map location on this site because it is too long to fit.) You cannot directly print copies of the maps, but if you have the software, you could take screen shots and print those.
Click on the photo above the previous one to bring up the enlarged (pop-up) photo. I have marked where I think your intermediate destination is, but do not rely upon it, as my maps are unclear. Note that from the Pas de la Cavalle, the destination is directly across from the bend in the riverbed at the lowest point of your route.
From the Pas de la Cavale, descend to the Lacs d'Angel take a compass sighting of Mont Bal. (Remember
that magnetic north is a few degrees west of true north. You will
be heading east-southeast, roughly 110 - 120 degrees, I think. Bushwhack
your way down in this direction, crossing some streams about 400 meters below the pass, and them traverse some intermediate
hills, basically climbing all the while. Once you have passed by the top edge of a steep ridge that will have blocked
your view to the right, a series of little
lakes eventually becomes visible, and you will keep these on your right as you continue to climb.
Looking back during bushwhack. Little lakes are below
towards left. Pas de Cavale is located
under first puffy white cloud to left of middle of photo. The
Pas de Cavale location is
marked on the larger version of
the photo,
that pops up when
you click on the small one.
 You
pass above the uppermost little lake, and come to a sort of cavity
that has a trail in it, running off to the right and continuing to climb. Eventually this attains the Pas de Morgon,
after a climb of 500 meters, and becomes a ridge trail, exposed on both sides, following cairns.
At the end of the ridge, you turn sharply right by about 135 degrees,
angling backwards down the slope, and at the bottom turn sharply
left again on a faint trail that soon meets another, better trail
that comes up from the right.
Refuge and lake of Vens.
 Shortly
thereafter you reach the signed Col du Fer at 2,684 meters, cross
the Collet Tortisse, and descend to the Refuge de Vens, at 2,360
meters, on a lake of the same name.. This is one of the wildest
corners of France.
If the weather was not conducive to the bushwhack, it is more
easily possible to reach the Refuge de Vens from the gîte
d'étape at Bousiéyas, by walking on the road 2 or
3 kilometers to le Pre, and then taking the marked trail which leads
to the Refuge de Vens, either directly in 4 hours or via the Col
du Fer in 5 hours. If you come to Vens via Bousiéys, it adds
a day to your trip.
Continuation of the Author's Route from
the Refuge de Vens
On their second day out from Larche, walkers on the GR5 will reach
St-Etienne-de-Tinée, 5 1/2 hours from Bousiéyas over
relatively easy trails. On my special route, it is also not too difficult
to reach St.-Etienne-de-Tinée on the second day, but I don't
recommend doing so.
Rather, continue on to the Refuge de Rabuons, at 2,500 meters,
beside a lake and foreboding mountains of black rocks. There is
a high route to do this for scramblers—quite exposed, and which
may require some crampons. Check with the staff at the Refuge de
Vens if you are desirous and learn from them if you are qualified to walk this high route .
There is also an "easy" way to get to the Refuge de Rabuons,
following what is called the "energy road".
Refuge and lake of Rabuons.
 Unless
you are taking the difficult high route, you will walk along the
north side of the Vens lakes, making a brief detour to see the view
where a stream exits to the lip of the plateau. Then, after passing
another lake, you will climb over a pass. After the pass, where
the path on the right descends towards St.-Étienne-de-Tinée,
you will bear left and climb slightly onto the Chemin de l'Energie—an
ancient "road" built between the World Wars to permit
construction of a hydroelectric plant (that never materialized).
About 5 kilometers long and practically level, the Chemin always
has excellent views of the Tinée valley until it passes through
a tunnel and emerges at the Rabouns lake. The Rabuons refuge is
isolated, small, and as primitive as any in the Alps.
From the Rabuons refuge, if you are not detouring through Italy
to Isola 2000, you can descend to St.-Étienne-de-Tinnée
(1,300 meters - 4,000 feet) in a one-half day.
I remember my visit to these remote parts as being very much worth
the effort and the detour. Some of my companions—who liked more
civilized surroundings, less risk, and less effort—do not agree.
Italian Diversions lead to Isola 2,000
and a shorter route to the GR52 (and an equal one to the GR5).
You can cross into Italy at several passes
between the Refuge de Vens and the Refuge de Rabuons. The easiest
crossing appears to be on a trail leading directly south from the
Refuge de Vens. Any of three or four Italian Refugios appear to
be accessible within a days walk of Vens. Seek more information
at the Refuge de Vens. Think twice before undertaking these routes
alone, as you would not likely meet anyone on the trails.
Mountain ridge dividing France and Italy,
near the lake of Rabuons.
 I
chose to cross to Italy by the pass of the Corborant, at 3,007 meters
(9,900 feet), higher than any other point on my Alpine traverse.
It is located behind the Refuge de Rabuons. Because of snow along
the steep trail on the French side (and no crampons or ice ax),
I climbed up and around on some snow-free ledges. On the Italian
side, there was initially a slope of shifting scree, which I navigated
in a sitting position. Unless you are comfortable with a bit of
rock climbing and with shifting stone slopes, I cannot recommend this route.
It appears from the map that you could cross more safely and easily
just north of the Corborant pass, though you would have a longer
walk in Italy to reach the Refugio.
 After
the initial descent, the rest was easy, and I arrived at the charming
Refugio di San Bernalfo quite early. A good Italian dinner, with
pasta and other specialties, was a welcome contrast to the austere
meals of the previous two nights at high altitude refuges. The next
day I walked on Italian trails and dirt roads to an easy pass leading
back to France above Isola 2000, a ski resort, 2,000 meters high.
Bring extra water with you.
The novelty of my Italian excursion made
the trip worthwhile, but there are other advantages to the Italian
detour. See the next page of this site as to why you might want
to go "detour" through Isola 2000, rather than follow
the GR5 from St.-Etienne-de-Tinée.
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